Pipe burst?Shut the water off, then call.

Copper repair $385–$685. PEX or CPVC $285–$485. Frozen pipe thaw and repair $385–$985. Slab leak detection $285–$485, with the repair itself $895–$3,495 depending on access. A water main break runs $1,500–$7,500 depending on depth and length. The $79 dispatch fee is waived once you go ahead with the work.

Tier 1 towns, Haledon, Paterson, Clifton, Hackensack, Teaneck, Hawthorne, Newark, Montclair, are 60 to 90 minutes at any hour of the night. We carry SharkBite, PEX, copper and brass fittings on every van, which is why most of these get repaired on the first visit rather than made safe and revisited.

Call. A person picks up, not a menu. Dispatch runs every hour of every day from our Haledon HQ, and a burst pipe goes to the front of the queue ahead of anything scheduled.

Yes, on work over $1,500-0% APR for 12 months through GreenSky or Synchrony with a soft credit check. It comes up most on slab leaks, water main breaks and whole-house repipes.

One-year workmanship warranty on every repair. Parts carry 10 to 25 years of manufacturer coverage on copper and PEX. If the same area leaks again within twelve months we come back and fix it at no charge.

Shut the main water valve, which is usually near the meter or where the water enters the basement. Open the lowest faucet in the house to drain what's left and take pressure off the break. Cut power to any flooded area at the breaker. Photograph the damage before anyone cleans up. Then call us.

In most North Jersey houses it's in the basement on the street-facing wall, near the meter. In slab houses it's often in a utility closet or under the kitchen sink. There's a second one at the curb under a metal cover, but that one belongs to the water department. Find yours on a dry day and show everyone who lives there.

Yes, and it often does. Ice expanding inside the pipe leaves micro-cracks that hold until pressure comes back. That's why we pressure-test a thawed line and repair anything compromised before the water goes back on, rather than thawing it and walking away.

Not with a torch. Open flame on frozen pipe is a genuine fire risk and it splits the pipe as the ice expands unevenly. A hair dryer worked gently from the tap end back toward the frozen section is the safest thing a homeowner can do. If it's already split, or you can't reach it, leave it alone and call.

Most often it's an outdoor spigot left connected to a garden hose through a hard freeze. After that it's pipes in an unheated crawlspace or garage during a real cold snap, and vacant houses with the thermostat set too low. Most of it happens during the first hard freeze of the season, before anyone has thought about winterising.

In rough order: a frozen outdoor spigot in a deep freeze, copper corrosion in pre-1970 houses, slab leaks from foundation settling, a washing machine hose letting go, and a toilet supply line doing the same. Those last two are the most common non-winter causes and both are a five-minute replacement you should be doing every five years.

Insulate the runs in unheated space with foam sleeves, which cost a couple of dollars a foot. Drip the cold taps on the worst nights. Leave cabinet doors open under sinks on outside walls. Disconnect garden hoses and shut the exterior spigots off in November. Keep the thermostat above 55°F if you're travelling. Rerouting the pipe out of the cold zone is the only permanent fix, and it's the one we'll recommend if the same run keeps freezing.

Yes, with electronic detection rather than a jackhammer, acoustic listening, thermal imaging and a sub-floor camera. Where we can, we reroute the line through a wall or ceiling so the concrete stays shut. Detection is $285–$485 and the repair runs $895–$3,495.

Yes, including the excavation, the new pipe in copper, PEX or HDPE, the backfill and the surface restoration. Trenchless where the ground allows it, which saves the lawn and the driveway. Cost depends heavily on depth and run length, $1,500 to $7,500 is typical, and a long run can reach $12,000.

Yes. A typical 2,000 sq ft North Jersey home runs $8,500–$18,500 depending on access, material and fixture count, and takes three to five days. It's the right call for galvanised pipe replacement, after flood remediation, or when a house has a history of leaks that keep moving around.

Type L copper for permanent visible work and gas lines. PEX-A or PEX-B for repipes and concealed work, because it's flexible and tolerates freezing far better. SharkBite push-fit for emergency repairs in tight spaces. CPVC only when somebody specifically asks for it. We don't install galvanised or polybutylene.

Yes, and plenty of pre-war North Jersey housing still has it. Galvanised corrodes from the inside, so by the time one section leaks the rest is usually close behind. We'll repair what you called about and tell you honestly what the rest of the run looks like, including when a repipe is the better use of the money.

Most homeowner policies cover sudden pipe failure and are much less generous about slow leaks that were ignored. We give you photographs, a written diagnosis and an itemised invoice, which is what an adjuster asks for. We don't bill insurance directly, most plumbers don't, and we won't tell you what your policy covers, because that's between you and your carrier.